Meet Geoffrey Bawa, The Gay Architect From Sri Lanka

After a few years away, we’re returning to the Pearl of the Indian Ocean: Sri Lanka! If you’re a fan of architecture, this tour offers a deep dive into the work of Geoffrey Bawa (1919-2003), highly regarded as the father of Tropical Modernism.

Along with being the most well-known Sri Lankan architect…he was also (as the kids say) wonderfully…zesty. Why do we mention this notable gay architect? Because his work is prominently featured throughout our tour. We’ll stay at 3 hotels that he designed. We’ll also visit the properties where he lived, worked, and played.

All About Geoffrey Bawa

Geoffrey was born in 1919 and raised in Colombo to esteemed lawyer, Major Benjamin Bawa (who served as Solicitor General of Ceylon) and Bertha Marianne. His lineage includes German, Scottish, and multiple Sri Lankan ethnic groups. He also had a brother named Bevis (also gay) who would find his own fame as a landscape architect.

Geoffrey initially followed in his father’s footsteps and became a barrister in London. After WWII, he returned to Colombo and worked for a local law firm until his mother’s death prompted a two-year period of international travel and soul searching. He returned home and purchased a rubber plantation with grand plans to create an Italian garden oasis, but realized he was limited by his own lack of technical know-how. And so, in 1951, he apprenticed under architect HH Reid before returning to London and studying architecture. Upon graduating in 1957, he returned home a second time and took over the late Reid’s practice.

Geoffrey’s homosexuality was something of an open secret among the artists, designers, and friends he surrounded himself with, even if it demanded discretion elsewhere. Those who knew him at Cambridge described him as strikingly unapologetic about who he was for the era, flamboyant, even, at a time when that carried real risk. Sri Lanka’s penal code, a holdover from British colonial rule, criminalized same-sex relations, and that law technically remains on the books today, though prosecutions were always rare, especially among Colombo’s elite. Geoffrey never married and kept his private life out of public view, but he built one anyway: at Lunuganga, and later at his Colombo house, he cultivated a close circle of like-minded creative men, and his and Bevis’s homes became known for a sensuality and privacy that let both brothers live and design largely on their own terms.

Bawa passed away in 2003. He’s buried on Cinnamon Hill at Lunuganga, his country estate that rose from the aforementioned rubber plantation.

Rejuvenate in a trio of tropical retreats.

Of all the tours we offer, Sri Lanka serves up some of our most decadent, exotic, and impressive accommodations. But what’s especially noteworthy is that 3 of these hotels are Bawa masterpieces.  And we can’t wait to share them with you!

Jetwing Lagoon, Negombo

After a (likely) long flight to Sri Lanka, our first stop is the perfect place to get over your jet lag. It was also the first hotel ever designed by Bawa.

The accommodations spread across 7 acres, with al fresco en-suites connected to their main rooms by courtyards. White plaster, timber, and terracotta define the spaces that, like virtually all Bawa properties, blur the lines of inside and out.

Originally known as The Blue Lagoon, the property was purchased by Jetwing in 2009 and underwent a major renovation under the supervision of Bawa protege Vinod Jayainghe. That renovation added a 100-meter swimming pool (the longest on Sri Lanka’s western coast). Additional renovations and updates were also completed in 2024.

Heritance Kandalama, Dambulla

Our second stop may be the most spectacular property of our tour. The hotel is built into a cliff, overrun with greenery, and surrounded by 211 acres of protected forest.

Inside spaces seamlessly merge with the outdoors and the property features 3 swimming pools, a spa, and plenty of bird watching.

Jetwing Lighthouse, Galle

Named after the lighthouse at the historic nearby Galle Fort, our tour’s penultimate property is perched over the Indian Ocean. It offers enormous suites that include teak floors, luggage rooms, walk-in showers, and stunning views.

The property is peppered with boulders that visually ground the locale. Like Heritance Kandlama, the hotel is nestled into a rocky hillside with open walkways and courtyards, but the oceanside locale offers a tremendously different vibe.

While here, be sure to admire the central staircase designed by Sri Lankan artist Laki Senanayake, who was initially hired as Bawa’s assistant and would become a frequent collaborator. It depicts the battle of Randeniwela, when the Kandyan defeated invading Portuguese forces in 1630.

Visit the places where Geoffrey lived, worked, and played!

Lunuganga Estate, Geoffrey’s former country residence

Our final full day of touring begins at Bawa’s private getaway, widely considered the purest expression of his architectural ethos (and the catalyst for his architectural career). After purchasing the 25-acre rubber estate in 1948, he spent decades transforming it into a garden paradise through careful, creative design. Today, the property reflects his legacy through astonishing views, elegant interiors, and original artwork and blueprints displayed throughout. There is a sundial sculpture here also designed by Laki Senanayake (Geoffrey’s aforementioned collaborator). While it’s only a stop on our tour, it also functions as a hotel should you ever wish to return for a deeper dive.

Number 11 / 33rd Lane, Geoffrey’s city home

Set in one of the capital’s most posh neighbourhoods, Number 11/33rd Lane was Bawa’s primary residence. It comprises four interconnected properties, the first of which Bawa purchased in 1959. Over the years and extensions, it would eventually become a sprawling 6,000 sq. foot space featuring rooms without roofs and a sense of infinite exploration despite the small urban footprint of the property. Both the materials and architecture were understated, allowing Bawa’s collection of art and artifacts to shine. Think white cement floors, white plaster walls, and simple lines.

The Gallery Café, originally the firm’s office

Now The Gallery Café (and one of Colombo’s most famous dining spaces), this was once the office of Geoffrey’s architecture firm. Tucked behind quiet courtyards and tropical gardens, this is where we’ll raise a glass and celebrate with our Farewell Lunch. Bawa personally approved the conversion of the space from office to restaurant, and today it features regularly changing exhibitions from both established and emerging artists.

On the final night of our tour, our Farewell Dinner goes down in one of Colombo’s most stylish restaurants. It is also in the former office of Geoffrey’s architecture firm and is pictured below. From the moment you arrive at the front door, past the water feature, and through to the inner courtyard, the entire entrance is a sublime experience.

Get up close and personal with Bawa’s work on our Sri Lanka: Isle of Serendipity tour. We’ll dive into the country’s unique culture and fascinating history while exploring both its lesser-travelled towns and lush countryside. If you’d like to read more about Geoffrey (and his brother Bevis) check out Bawa: The Sri Lanka Gardens, by David Robson.