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Your gay guide to the best hotels, restaurants, things to see, shopping, and LGBTQ+ nightlife in Córdoba, Spain!

By Christopher DeLorenzo, guest writer

You’ve probably heard a lot about southern Spain: the sun-soaked beaches, the bite-sized tapas, the impressive architecture, and all those beautiful Spaniards! Cities in this region of Andalucía—like Sevilla and Granada—may sound familiar, but what do you know about the second-oldest city in Spain, Córdoba? Well, if you’re anything like me, the answer might be next to nothing. And if that’s true, you’re in for a treat. Read on for a handy Gay Guide to Córdoba, one of the stops on Out Adventures’ Spain: Madrid, Sevilla & Barcelona tour.

Jump to: HotelsRestaurantsThings To See & DoShoppingLGBTQ+ Nightlife


I discovered Córdoba almost by accident when a friend invited me to travel with her to Sevilla and Granada. I was excited to learn more about this region, and to see the fantastic Alhambra, so I tagged along. But when she took off to Paris (ooh-la-la!) and I ended up with three nights on my own, I decided to give Córdoba a visit. I’m so glad I took this solo trip, because it turned out to be one of the most romantic places I’ve ever been.

After enjoying the sexy allure of Sevilla, and the gritty charm of Granada, Córdoba was a pleasant surprise. I was struck right away by the white-washed walls lining the pedestrian-only streets, and the wide variety of lovely specialty shops. I soon discovered that Córdoba is a lovely destination for many reasons: it’s friendly and quiet, with a lot of great places to eat and shop, it’s easily walkable, and it’s also a wonderful place for LQBTQ+ travelers to spend a few nights.  

Tuck Into Your Hotel

Hotel Palacio Colomera

This stately hotel puts the palace back in palacio, and it’s highlighted as one of Out Adventures’ Stays That Slay for good reason.

One of the oldest hotels in the city, its interior includes a sunny central atrium and an elegant marble staircase, while a more recent addition sports a beautiful breakfast room, a rooftop bar, and a quiet pool area.

The service was impeccable, and the rooms were comfortable and well-appointed. I especially appreciated the large variety of options at breakfast.

And the location, in the Plaza de las Tendillas, couldn’t have been better: main squares are often so crowded during the height of summer, but this one felt sophisticated and lively, a perfect match for this grand old hotel. The square was mostly quiet at night, with plenty of great spots just outside the lobby door to take a break for coffee or a cold drink during the day. I’m still dreaming about the bite-sized pork burger and the handsome waiter at Gran Bar, only steps from the front door. Though I found other adorable hotels in Córdoba, I’m glad I ended up staying at the Palacio Colomera.

EuroStars Patios de Córdoba

The Eurostar chain has a solid reputation throughout Europe, but their properties in southern Spain take this to a new level. Cushy, but not kitschy (not that there’s anything wrong with that!), they have all the amenities and are quite reasonable. This one, in the Central district, just east of Plaza de las Tendillas, is close to museums and universities. There’s a vibrancy to the area, and the hotel is tucked right into the heart of it all.

With only 64 rooms, the hotel is relatively small, and sports a cozy bar, a quiet breakfast room, and an elegant central patio, which is part of the annual “Patios de Córdoba” festival.

The architecture is impressive: modern amenities and lush fabrics blend with beautiful arched ceilings. The hotel also has several well-preserved archeological remains on site, including an ancient hydraulic fountain. This one is a jewel in the Eurostar family.

Soho Boutique Capuchinos & Spa Hotel

As my bougie friends often say, it’s nice to have a spa nearby, and this hotel gets it right. Small, unassuming, yet still chic, this boutique hotel with only 27 rooms boasts a full-service spa, complete with Turkish baths and saunas.

The rooms have a shiny, sleek feel, with exposed brick walls and just enough gold details to make the atmosphere feel royal. They offer a hearty breakfast and a rooftop patio. Did I mention it’s also pet-friendly?

The hotel is located in the Plaza de Capuchinos, one of the most arresting and hauntingly beautiful spots to enter at night. The tiny square features a 17th-century crucifix at its center, surrounded by candles, which visitors can light in honor of loved ones. It’s quite a sight.

The Plaza de Colón is also close by and includes the Jardines de la Merced: a quiet, cool, green space that is a nice place to linger with the locals.

Enjoy The Restaurants

Bodegas Mezquita Ribera has three locations, but none are as warm and inviting as the original site (Plaza Cruz del Rastro 4). The only two servers on the floor, the dynamic duo—Carlos and Yubry—invited me to sit at the bar and watch them deliver gorgeous, unpretentious food from a kitchen staffed entirely by women.

The highlight for me was the mazzamora, Córdoba’s famous white gazpacho made from almonds and garlic. I also enjoyed the squid and cabbage salad, and a few wines I had never heard of before, which Carlos generously recommended.

Moriles Ribera (Paseo de La Ribera 6) was recommended by someone who said one day he ate there for lunch and dinner. Normally, I would judge, but after devouring their shrimp roasted in olive oil and garlic and savoring their house-cured tuna, I soon understood his obsession. The place was packed with locals during a Tuesday lunch. I liked it so much, I didn’t even scoff when a waiter asked me to move over a little so she could access the dumb waiter (well, maybe I scoffed a little).

The cool design—multiple stories that include the coveted indoor patio—and the outside patio add to its charm.

Patio Romano (Deanes 11 @ Romero) is advertised as queer-owned and was the only place I saw quite a few vegetables on the menu. After more than a week of fish, meat, potatoes, and white bread, I happily paid 16 Euro for a huge plate of dark green grilled asparagus. I was more than an hour too early to see the place fill up: at 8 p.m., I was still the only one there, so I had the lovely open courtyard and friendly staff all to myself. It was here that I finally understood the appeal of the indulgent specialty of Córdoba, flamenquín, a less-than-healthy pork loin filet stuffed with ham, rolled, breaded, then fried. It was over-the-top delicious.

Things To See & Do

The Mezquita Cathedral is a must-see in Córdoba. Originally built as a mosque in the 8th century, it was then converted to a cathedral by King Ferdinand III in the 13th century, who literally had the roof of the mosque torn off so that a cathedral could be built on top of it. Both structures now elegantly coexist as a fusion of Moorish and Christian architecture.

Wander through the striped archways to the central vaulted ceiling of the cathedral and enjoy medieval art along the way. I think it’s also worth the extra three Euros to climb the bell tower beforehand for a bird’s eye view of the entire structure, including the beautiful orange grove in the courtyard.

Getting tickets online can be confusing, but you can purchase them on location or buy them on the official website.

This walled city is also famous for its Roman Bridge, which spans the Guadalquivir River and offers spectacular views of the city at sunset. Built in the 1st century (yes, you read that correctly), the bridge connects the city center to a serene riverside park, where the Tower de Calahorra makes a grand statement and boasts a museum and gift shop. Wander down the riverfront a bit and you’ll also find the Tower of Guadalcabrillas, originally constructed in the 14th century.

When you head back toward the city center, the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos is a short walk and a serene spot to explore. If you’re feeling adventurous and enjoy outdoor museums, head to the expansive Medina Azahara, about 20 minutes from the city center.

A fortified palace and practically a city itself, this marvel was built in the 10th century and served as the capital of the Caliphate (the Muslim empire). Once the center of government life, it eventually fell into ruin, and is now being restored.

Information panels are in Spanish and English, and the views are incredible. Do note: taxis are infamous for dropping people there for a whopping 35 Euros, but rarely return, even when called. So pay the 10 Euro round trip bus fare with this friendly tour service, but be on time: they leave from two locations near Plaza de Victoria, and only have one return several hours later.

Shop ‘Til You Drop

The main streets heading toward the Cathedral and the riverfront are filled with charming tienditas (little shops) selling chocolates, ceramics, and all kinds of olive oil (Spain produces about 25% of all the olive oil in Western Europe).

My favorite was Calle de Jesús y Maria, which begins at the Plaza de las Tendillas; stay on the main drag and follow the flow of the crowd south. I especially liked Mandrágora Café, Té y Chocolate (Jesús de María 14) and Gastrotienda Luque (Blanco Belmonte 4), where they sell 100 ml bottles of olive oil, which you can tuck into your carry-on. (I would have liked to carry on the young man who helped me there; he was so sweet!)

Shopping in southern Spain is a surprisingly pleasant experience because people take such pride in their jobs and are so authentically hospitable.

Take A Stroll At Night

At night, the city is illuminated, which gives the stone structures a golden glow. I walked alone at night and always felt safe, including the time I walked through the city’s largest park, Jardines de Victoria, which is open all night. Even at midnight, I often stumbled across a musician in the plazas, playing guitar; I would sit among the couples—queer and straight—enjoying the romance.

These serene moments made me understand that while it’s a wonderful place to travel solo, Córdoba would be a perfect destination for lovers. 

And while I may have been dreaming about honeymoons, I could have found some “company” walking along Avenida del Alcazár, near the old tower (Torre de Guadalcabrillas). It gets pretty cruisy there after sundown; I was flattered when a handsome older gentleman asked me to come back to his apartment, and mesmerized by a muscly young guy playing the flute. I decided to remain solo, but enjoyed the—ahem—scenery.

Explore The LGBTQ+ Bars  

Though it’s a relatively small city (300K+), Córdoba has two LGBTQ+ bars. During the summer months, they’re only open on Friday and Saturday nights after 10 p.m., and they are quite different from each other.

Ideal (Alfaros 29) was close to the city center but still quiet at 12:30 a.m. on a Saturday. It’s two stories, with a cute dance floor upstairs and a lounge downstairs. I could tell it was one of those places with handsome bartenders and strong drinks: it felt like a place to get tipsy and dance with sweaty strangers (after 2:00).  

Glam Vial (Calle de la Radio 11) was hopping when I arrived at 1:00 a.m., though I couldn’t make sense of the lyrics to the Spanish rap music, nor a few seemingly hetero couples in the their 70’s who were grooving to the beats and drinking something tall and dark blue. The tables out front, however, were packed with locals of all ages, smoking and chatting, and I could tell this was a beloved neighborhood spot.

A Final Note For Gay Guide: Córdoba

I am thankful to have discovered the queer spots and the romantic squares of Córdoba on my short visit. And while you can see a lot in three days, I have to admit, I would have liked more time there. While the beaches are over an hour away by train, they tend to be crowded and throbbing in a way that can’t compare to the magic this ancient city has to offer. If you get a chance to visit Córdoba, go for it. You won’t be disappointed!


Are you keen join us for an adventure through Spain’s most spectacular cities? Our Spain: Madrid, Sevilla & Barcelona tour departs every September. Fill out a booking form on the tour page or Contact Us to reserve your spot.

Christopher P. DeLorenzo lives in San Francisco and is a writer, a teacher, and an avid gay traveler.